North Albania is famous for the Valbona-Theth hike in the Albanian Alps, as well as its fantastic swimming spots and waterfalls, a peaceful natural environment, and authentic villages.
On this one-week trip around Northern Albania, you visit Shkodër, Lake Koman, the Shala River, Valbona Valley, Theth Mountain Village, and, most of all, complete the Valbona to Theth hike.
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Transport: The most common and convenient way to travel in the north of Albania is by bus (and boat), but renting a car is a great idea for visiting more off-the-beaten-path spots.
Tour: We visited the north of Albania ourselves, but if you want to join an organized trip, with all costs included, and a professional tour guide to lead the way, book this top-rated 3-day Albanian Alps Tour.
Favorite hotels
- Lake Koman: 5 Stinet (great location)
- Shala River: Riverside Komani (peaceful – kayak to Shala or free boat transfer)
- Valbona: Jezerca Guesthouse (private wooden huts)
- Theth: Guesthouse Dritan Tethorja (BEST budget option if booked in advance) and Mikpritja Theth (fantastic villas just uphill of the center)
- Shkodër: The Rooftop Hostel (chill place, right in the center, has a rooftop)
Heads up: Hotels in North Albania’s mountains and rivers are more expensive than elsewhere in the country, so if you want a more budget-friendly trip, book your hotels well in advance. Not only do they become more expensive later, but they also get fully booked out, so you might end up without a place to stay if you wait too long.
How to easily book transport for your whole week in North Albania
We booked all our trips with Berisha (komanilakeferry.com), the leading boat/ferry operator on Lake Koman, and we recommend you do the same.
To connect travelers with the ferry journey, they also provide all the bus transfers you will need in North Albania (Tirana/Shkoder to Koman, Koman to Valbona, Theth to Shkoder).
North Albania Transport Information
- 🚌 The 3-hour minibus journey from Tirana to Lake Koman costs 12 EUR.
- 🚌 The 2-hour minibus from Shkoder to Lake Koman costs 8 EUR.
- 🚤 The return boat trip to the Shala River from Koman costs 25 EUR per person (1h 15min one way).
- 🚢 The ferry on Lake Koman to Fierza, on the way to Valbona, takes 3 hours and costs 8.8 EUR.
- 🚌 The 1-hour minibus from Fierza to Valbona Valley costs 8 EUR and takes 1 hour.
- 🚌 The 2-hour minibus from Theth to Shkoder costs 12 EUR.
Detailed one-week North Albania itinerary
| LOCATION | SEE AND DO |
|---|---|
| Lake Koman – Shala River (2 nights) | Komani Lake Boat Ride, Stunning Shala River, Swimming, Kayaking |
| Valbona Valley (1 night) | Relaxing, Hiking, Valbona River |
| Day Hike Valbona to Theth | Hike, Valbona Pass, Mountain Views |
| Theth (2 nights) | Mountain Scenery, Waterfalls, River Swimming, Hiking |
| Shkodër (1 night) | Old Town, Castle, Lake, River Swimming |
For easier navigation and understanding of locations within North Albania, refer to the interactive map we created for this itinerary.
Good to know: Exploring North Albania with a rented car is possible, and many do it.
However, we personally don’t think it’s needed.
For a big part of this itinerary, it’s a real hassle (Koman, Shala River, Valbona, Valbona-Theth hike), as you have to travel by boat/ferry and then hike over a literal mountain to an entirely other destination. We’ll dive deeper into why further in the article.
Day 1 – Arrival at Komani Lake and Shala River
The first destination on this trip is Lake Koman, where you will spend two nights.
Lake Koman is a large reservoir, mostly popular for the nearby Shala River, often called “the Thailand of Albania”. Having spent almost a year in Thailand, we wouldn’t fully agree with the naming, but in the summer, the Shala River really does look absolutely stunning.
Albania trip
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📶 Stay online by getting an eSIM. You can get our favorite eSIM at a 10% discount.
On this itinerary, your journey begins very early in the morning at 5:30 in Tirana, Albania’s capital, with a bus pickup. However, if you prefer, you can also start in Shkoder, where you get an extra hour of sleep and only leave at 6:45.
No matter the starting point, you’ll arrive at the Koman Lake Ferry Terminal at 8:30 AM. Then, you have to wait for the boat that will take you to your accommodation on Lake Koman or on the Shala River. Our boat picked us up at 10 AM, so we grabbed some coffee and tea while we waited.
Where to stay
In this part, it’s incredibly important where you will stay, as it will fully set the mood and experience of your visit to Koman and Shala.
We booked our 2-night stay at Riverside Komani, which was a great choice. It’s a fantastic guesthouse on the Shala River, just a 5-minute boat ride south of the famous Shala area. We were super close, but in a quiet environment.
Pros of staying at Riverside Komani
- Kayaks
- Free boat transfer to the Shala River area
- Nice swimming spot
- Picturesque bridge to a short hiking trail
You can also stay right in the main Shala River part with the beach, bridge, and restaurants. We recommend the Guri i Lekes Guesthouse (comfy rooms), which we planned to book before we heard of Riverside Komani.
There is also the option to stay on Lake Koman itself, and not at the Shala River Part. From there, you can also easily organize a boat trip to visit the Shala River. Stay at 5 Stinet for the best experience – it’s a new hotel right on the lake’s shore.
Our favorite Albania eSIM
Fast Speed and Reliable Signal
Ever since we got phones that support eSIMs, we have been hooked and never looked back. 📶
We always get the best value-for-money eSIM we can, based on reliable signal, fast internet speeds, and coverage across the country. 🌐
Now that eSIM plan prices are more than reasonable compared to regular phone plans (which are more of a hassle to get), we really see no reason not to get one for each trip.
Day 2 – Shala River
The second day is all about enjoying a fun day at Shala River.
Things to do at Shala River
- Sunbathe and swim
- Kayak on the river
- Hike the short trail
- Check out the viewpoint
- Zipline from one side to the other
We rented a kayak at Riverside Komani and kayaked all the way to the Shala River.
We could have used the free return boat trip to the main Shala River area, which is just upstream from the property. However, we wanted a bit more fun, and kayaking was the perfect activity.
It was a fun way to explore the river, and if you’re comfortable kayaking, we highly recommend doing this as well.
Things to do at Koman Lake
- Kayak on the lake or to the Shala River
- Swim and sunbathe on the lake’s shore
- Enjoy a scenic boat ride to the Shala River
Someone passed by our hotel with these fancy kayaks from the 5 Stinet Hotel, which are perfect for getting to the Shala River since it’s further away than if you stay in the main area (or where we stayed).
These kayaks are longer, so you can go faster, and the tops are closed, so you don’t get as much water in from paddling and possible rain.
Things to know for off-season travel
Since we visited the Shala River in October, it didn’t look as stunning as it does in the summer months, because the water was almost gone, except for a small section on one side. In spring and summer, the river forms an island in the middle of two streams, where you can jump in and swim.
In summer, kayaking to the Shala River area is easy. However, when we visited in October, the water level was so low that we had to take the kayak out of the shallow water a few times and carry it for 10 to 20 meters into the deeper part. But this added to the adventure and was so fun.
Planning an active trip?
Don't risk it without travel insurance
We never travel outside our home countries before getting travel insurance. And sure, we don’t count on anything happening. But it can when you least expect it! 🤕
For example, Arijana twisted her ankle just because she took a wrong step when going down completely normal stairs. 🤦♀️
In those situations (and hopefully nothing worse), travel insurance comes in handy so you don’t have to pay the medical costs.
Plus, since it costs about 3 USD/EUR per day, it’s not a crazy expense, and definitely not something to ignore. 😷
Day 3 – Valbona Valley
On day three, you depart your Shala/Koman accommodation for the Koman Lake Ferry Terminal, where you board the boat/ferry to Fierza.
Then, from Fierza, you board a minibus to take you the rest of the way (1 hour) to Valbona Valley.
We recommend the earliest departure so you arrive in Valbona at 1 PM and have the whole afternoon to enjoy the valley.
Summer in Valbona is perfect for dipping into the refreshing river, going for a hike, and enjoying a meal with views of the valley and mountains.
Where to stay
There is a somewhat large selection of hotels in Valbona Valley, and it’s important that you book one that’s not too far from the hike’s starting point the next day, or that they offer to drop you off at the trail.
Picking the right hotel in Valbona is important because it’s a 5km, 1-hour walk to the Valbona-Theth trailhead from the main area. And, if you book a hotel further away, the distance/duration can easily double.
For a budget but comfortable stay, we recommend Jezerca Guesthouse, which is well situated for the Valbone to Theth hike and offers comfortable private wooden huts. An even more budget option, but still comfy and of great quality, is Bujtina Brahim Selimaj.
3 days in the Albanian Alps
Tour with a guide
Day 4 – Valbona to Theth Hike
It’s time for the highlight of this one-week North Albania itinerary, the hike from Valbona to Theth!
Hiking from Valbona to Theth takes 5 to 8 hours and is a must-do activity in Albania, where you hike from the valley of Valbona, all the way up to Valbona Pass at 1759 meters, and then do a steep descent down to the mountain village of Theth.
Start your day early so you can get to Theth before dark and still enjoy the afternoon there. We recommend starting at sunrise.
On the way, you get beautiful views of the Albanian Alps, the valley of Valbona on one side, and Theth on the other, plus, if lucky, snowcapped peaks.
The hike is not too challenging, and most beginner hikers can do it without much trouble. Plus, the Valbona to Theth hiking trail is well-marked and frequented daily.
On the trail, you will find a few small bars to stop for a drink or a light meal, or to top up your water.
At the top of the pass, there is a short, few-minute extra hike you can do to the actual Valbona Pass Viewpoint. And it’s so worth it, because you get an unobstructed view of the mountains and valleys all around you. Don’t miss this!
Plus, there are always dogs on the trail, and if you’re lucky, you’ll also meet some of them at the top of Valbona pass. This one mountain dog we took a photo of blended perfectly with this landscape!
Full disclosure
We spent hours and hours researching and planning this perfect itinerary for our first visit to North Albania in October.
But, we were unlucky with the weather, as snow covered the peaks and the whole Valbona Pass in the first days of the month, when we were supposed to go hiking.
We were closely following the Peaks of the Balkans Facebook group to see the actual conditions from people on the ground.
This was completely unexpected (even by all the locals), and the snow and ice made the hike over the mountain unsafe. That’s why we actually only hiked from Theth to Valbona Pass, as we first visited Komani Lake, and then Shkoder and Theth, and had to skip Valbona altogether. 😞
BUT, even though we only hiked from Theth to the Valbona Pass without visiting Valbona itself, we believe we saw most of the highlights of the hike, based on other people’s experiences who did the whole hike.
We plan to return to Albania very soon and, in addition to hiking from Valbona to Theth, also complete the Peaks of the Balkans trail. It’s SUPER high on our list of great hikes to do in the Balkans.
That’s why, if you’re not sure if you want to hike over the mountain from one valley to another, you can visit Theth and Valbona separately. Or visit only Theth and hike up to the pass, as we ended up doing.
In this case, renting a car for the north of Albania is a great idea, since you can drive to Koman Lake yourself, then to Shkoder, and then to Theth to do the hike and visit the other places.
Best way to explore Albania?
RENTING A CAR
We love exploring places at our own pace and on our own time, especially to avoid crowds at popular destinations we visit. Plus, watching sunrises and sunsets at epic locations is a must. ☀
That’s why renting a car for us is a no-brainer, and an unmissable part of most trips. 🚗
We love having the choice to compare prices, choose different pick-up and drop-off locations (one-way rentals), and pay for a reasonable full insurance policy without going broke. 🤑
After arriving in Theth, we recommend staying for 3 nights to fully enjoy the area.
Day 5 – Theth Village, Blue Eye, Waterfall, and Church
Take a morning to visit the Blue Eye and the beautiful area around it (yes, there’s more to it). Then, visit Grunas Waterfall on a short hike, before finishing off at the Church of Theth.
The Blue Eye is a stunning spot, and the surrounding area is perfect for relaxing by the water, taking a quick dip, and spending some peaceful time in nature. You can reach the Blue Eye on foot from Theth, or take a shared taxi from Theth’s center for 5 EUR one-way.
Grunas Waterfall is actually on the way to the Blue Eye, just a bit outside of Theth village. A short hike leads to the waterfall, which is quite tall and powerful. From the area of Grunas Waterfall, there are a few other hiking trails you can follow, like the one to the field of Denelit.
THE most famous photo spot in Theth is the Catholic Church, built of stone in a unique architectural style. The backdrop of the mountains on each side of the church makes it clear why it’s so popular.
As our hotel was nearby, we passed the church countless times and can confirm that it looks best for sunrise and just before sunset, when the golden light hits the mountains.
For dinner, make a reservation at a restaurant if possible, as they get busy FAST. If the restaurant doesn’t accept reservations, arrive early and wait until the kitchen opens.
This was the case for our favorite restaurant in Theth, the Gurra Family Restaurant (vegetarian-friendly). They start taking food orders at 6 PM, when the kitchen opens. So if you’d like to get a table for food, come for drinks around 5:30 PM, then order food as soon as the kitchen opens.
We arrived at the restaurant around 5:30, and it worked out well. We ordered some drinks, and the friendly waiter came to get our food order just after 6 PM.
We loved the baked potatoes in cream (so filling and delicious!), the stuffed eggplant, and the stuffed pepper. Plus, the portions were generous.
How long to stay in Theth
We recommend staying 3 nights in Theth, so you have two full days after the Valbona to Theth hike. However, the second day in Theth is optional, as most travelers stay only 2 nights and leave after visiting the main highlights on the first full day.
With two full days in Theth, you get an extra day for some more hiking or relaxing at the riverside, where in the summer, there are a few beach bars.
Day 6 – Leaving Theth plus an afternoon in Shkodër
We recommend taking the first bus from Theth, so you’re in Shkoder at 1:30 PM, perfectly in time for hotel check-in. That way, you can essentially visit most of Shkoder’s highlights in that one whole afternoon.
THE best place to visit in Shkoder is Rozafa Castle, and the best time to visit is at sunset, when it offers fantastic views of the whole area around Shkoder.
In Shkoder, we recommend staying at The Rooftop Hostel, a chill place, right in the center, with a rooftop. We had a simple room, but it was clean and even had a table and a fridge.
Other than Rozafa Castle, we recommend visiting Mesi Bridge, about 8km outside Shkoder, where in the summer you can swim and chill by the river.
Further up the river from Mesi Bridge, there are more amazing spots along the water at Kanioni Ura e Shtrenjtë, where you can go swimming in the summer, plus some bars to chill at. But for this, you’d need to add another day to Shkoder – it takes too long to get there and back to fit it all into one afternoon.
You can get to spots outside Shkoder by taxi or rent a bike, which is a great way to get around.
In the evening, take a stroll along the Old Town and Kole Idromeno Street, and definitely drop by Pastiçeri Oraldi Pedonale for some delicious Tri Leche and MANY other desserts. We absolutely loved their cakes and tried three different ones, all of which were fantastic.
Did you know? Shkoder is right on the border with Montenegro, and from Rozafa Castle you will have views across Shkoder Lake and see parts of the neighboring country.
Day 7 – Morning in Shkodër and off to the next destination
On the last day, if you have extra time before you leave Shkoder, you can visit Shkoder Lake, which also has beaches, but it’s a bit farther and requires a longer drive. That’s why if you want a proper beach time, we’d wait until the seaside.
Leaving Shkoder is easy, but for most locations beyond Tirana, you first need to catch a bus to Tirana and then another to your next destination.
Best thing to do in Tirana? The Albanian Night show! It’s a super fun performance where you get to learn about Albanian culture up close, see the traditional dancing (and try it), and more. You can read our Albanian Night Review to learn all about it.
Read next 👇
We LOVED this show in Tirana, and we think it’s something everyone coming to Albania for the first time should experience.
Leaving for the Tirana Airport? You can book a private airport transfer for about 70 EUR (with hotel pickup), or use the airport shuttle for 10-13 EUR (morning and afternoon departures).
You can get to Tirana city center by regular bus in 2 hours for 5 EUR, leaving from Shkoder Bus Station every 30-45 minutes (7 AM – 5 PM). Keep in mind it’s more of a bus stop than an actual bus station.
If you stay at the popular The Wanderers Hostel in Shkoder and want to visit Tirana next, you can book a bus that picks you up right from the hostel.
Best time to visit North Albania
June to September is the best time to visit the north of Albania, which corresponds to the end of Spring, the entire summer, and the beginning of Autumn.
That’s also when there is no snow on the Valbona pass, so that you can complete the Valbona to Theth hike without worry.
The absolute best time for swimming in lakes, rivers, and waterfalls in northern Albania is, of course, summer, specifically the months of July and August, with long, sunny days and perfect temperatures.
Frequently Asked Questions
Traveling for one week in North Albania costs between 400 and 600 EUR for budget travelers and 800 EUR and up for a more comfortable adventure, depending on the type of hotels you stay at, and the transportation you use (private vs. shared). The most significant expense is accommodation, which accounts for 50 percent of the trip cost, followed by transportation at about 20 percent, and the rest is food, drinks, and activities.
500 EUR is enough for a budget, but still a comfortable one-week adventure in North Albania.
Yes, absolutely. One week is a perfectly sufficient time to see North Albania’s highlights, from visiting lakes, rivers, and villages to doing the best hikes and activities.
In one week in North Albania, you should visit: Lake Koman (2 nights), Valbona Valley (1 night), Theth (2 nights), and Shkodër (1 night).
Is North Albania worth seeing?
Absolutely. After visiting North Albania, which was at the top of our list of must-do things, we can confirm it did not disappoint and is definitely worth visiting. Especially the Valbona to Theth hike, Shala River & Koman Lake, and the picturesque village of Theth.
P.S. Here is a photo from when two very friendly guys from Denmark gave us a free ride back to Tirana in their 8 EUR/day rental car (we met at Riverside Komani).
