We started our journey in Tirana, the capital, on October 1st with a planned two-week itinerary, but we ended up extending our trip for another week.
We’re happy we had the time to do that on our first visit to the country. Otherwise, we couldn’t fit in everything we wanted to see and do because the days were much shorter.
By the end of our October trip, the sun rose at 7 AM and set at 5:50 PM. Compared to, let’s say, our end-of-June visit to the Dolomites, where the sun rose at 5 AM and set around 9 PM, it’s a lot less time.
Temperature-wise, we were happy to have daytime highs of up to 25 degrees Celsius, but evenings and mornings were a bit fresher, around 10 degrees (or 15 on the coast).
Above all, we absolutely loved the colors during our autumn trip, especially in northern Albania. It was, after all, one of the reasons we decided on an autumn trip.
Autumn is our favorite time to travel the Balkans. In addition to Albania, we did an autumn trip to Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, and Montenegro.
Why we adjusted our plan
We were unlucky with the weather during our October visit to Albania when snow covered the mountains in the first days of the month.
Snow fell exactly on our arrival, and after two days in Tirana, we were supposed to do the standard loop around northern Albania. We planned to visit Komani Lake and the Shala River, hike from Valbona Valley over the mountain pass to Theth, and then head to Shkoder before continuing south.
But since snow made the hike extremely unsafe, we had to change our itinerary and spend extra time in Tirana, which we didn’t plan.
Instead of hiking from Valbona to Theth, we visited Komani Lake & Shala River, returned to Tirana to rent a car, then went back to Shkoder and Theth separately, skipping the Valbona Valley.
Even though we only hiked from Theth to Valbona Pass, without visiting Valbona itself, we think we saw the hike’s highlights (based on other people’s experiences). So we don’t feel too bad. Next time!
Here’s what to expect in Autumn when…
Exploring cities and sites
Autumn is perfect for a city break in Albania and for exploring all the main attractions, including outdoor sites.
There definitely weren’t crowds anywhere, unlike in summer. For example, when we explored the bunkers in Tirana, it was fairly empty.
The only thing to consider for cities and sites in autumn is that some things might open later and close earlier. For example, during our October visit to Kruje, the Old Bazaar stalls didn’t open until around 10:30 AM.
Main tourist attractions, though, like the Butrint historical site, are normally open, and at 9:30 AM on our visit, there were already many groups there.
Albania trip
MUST-HAVE ✔
💳 Save money when changing currencies or taking out cash by bringing a backup travel card. Oh, and in case an ATM swallows your card. Yes, it happened to us. 🤦♂️
🔌 Bring a Universal Travel Adapter with fast-charging capabilities (45W and Power Delivery).
Searching for good food
We noticed that many restaurants in tourist centers were closed, and those that remained had shorter hours or were closed on certain days.
For example, while in Berat, we planned to eat at Zeri, a restaurant with great traditional food right inside the castle grounds. Google showed the restaurant as open, but when we arrived, we realized it had been closed since mid-October (maybe earlier).
In the off-season, like autumn, you can’t rely on Google’s opening hours because many restaurants don’t update them. So, we recommend contacting restaurants to confirm their opening hours, especially if it’s a place you really want to try.
We realized that, compared to other Mediterranean countries such as Croatia, the season is slightly shorter in Albania.
Going hiking
As we already mentioned, we were unlucky with the weather, as snow covered the peaks and the whole Valbona Pass just before we were supposed to go hiking there.
Snow in the first days of October was completely unexpected, even by all the locals. And while we wouldn’t mind a bit of snow, the Valbona Pass can be super dangerous when it’s covered.
Hiking in off-season tip: We were closely following the Peaks of the Balkans Facebook group to see the actual conditions from people on the ground. Thanks to a member, we saw that the Valbona Pass was fully covered in snow, so we postponed the hike.
That’s why we only hiked from Theth to Valbona Pass and back, and had to skip Valbona altogether. 😞 Also, since we hiked in the off-season, only one bar was open (usually there are multiple, and they also have food).
We plan to return to Albania very soon and, in addition to hiking from Valbona to Theth, also complete the Peaks of the Balkans trail. It’s SUPER high on our list of must-do Balkan hikes.
Going to the beach
Autumn is still a great time for chilling at the beach and going swimming, especially on the Albanian Riviera, from Vlorë to Himarë and down to Sarande/Ksamil.
We spent about a week on the Albanian Riviera in mid-October and had a fantastic time. We still went swimming and took two great boat tours (Blue Cave and Pirate’s Cave). We don’t feel like we missed out on anything.
Surprisingly, although Ksamil and Sarande are more popular, we saw fewer people on their beaches than in Himare.
Ksamil beaches were completely empty, with only a few people in the water, while Himare still had people on the beach and in the water. Aquarium Beach, for example, was full of people, but it’s true that it’s a small spot, so it fills up fast.
Autumn in Albania won’t be the “perfect” beach vacation, but it has MUCH fewer crowds, and hotel prices are incredibly low, with still good temperatures for the beach and swimming. But again, not every restaurant and bar will be open, so that’s a trade-off.
Exploring rivers and seeing waterfalls
The only downside to an autumn Albania trip is that the rivers and waterfalls won’t be as spectacular, as the water levels are lower. For example, in Holta Canyon, the water level was lower than usual, and the Grunas Waterfall in Theth was much smaller.
Also, while we were river tubing in Osumi Canyon during our stay in Berat, the waterfalls that usually flow down the canyon walls were nearly dry. We still absolutely loved the experience – one of our favorites in Albania! Make sure to read our tubing tour review before going.
But while the waterfalls weren’t as majestic in autumn, we were most disappointed with the Shala River and Komani Lake.
When we visited the Shala River in October, it looked nothing like the beautiful videos and photos we saw on social media. The water in the main Shala River area was almost gone, except for a small section on one side.
In spring and summer, the river splits into two streams and forms an island where you can chill, jump in, and swim. In summer, the Shala River’s water is incredibly clear, and the whole area looks stunning. While the term “Thailand of Europe” is a bit much, it really looks amazing and does remind us of some places in Thailand.
We stayed at the fantastic Riverside Komani guesthouse, a great choice, as the water hadn’t completely disappeared yet downstream, where the hotel is. But the low water levels affected our kayaking trip.
At the hotel, we skipped the boat ride and instead kayaked all the way up to the Shala River. It’s usually a fantastic experience.
However, during our October visit, the water level near the Shala River was so low that we had to pull the kayak out of the shallow water a few times and carry it 10 to 20 meters into deeper water. This made it harder, but most of all, less enjoyable.
Boats that usually bring tourists to the Shala River, however, were almost completely stuck and, in some areas, had to push through extremely shallow water. Honestly, we’re so glad we didn’t stay in the main area, because it would take forever to get to a hotel there and back without getting wet. You can read our full review of the guesthouse we stayed in and the area, and find tips on how to get there.
Best way to explore Albania?
RENTING A CAR
We love exploring places at our own pace and on our own time, especially to avoid crowds at popular destinations we visit. Plus, watching sunrises and sunsets at epic locations is a must. ☀
That’s why renting a car for us is a no-brainer, and an unmissable part of most trips. 🚗
We love having the choice to compare prices, choose different pick-up and drop-off locations (one-way rentals), and pay for a reasonable full insurance policy without going broke. 🤑
Frequently Asked Questions
Is North Albania worth seeing in Autumn?
Absolutely, North Albania is great to visit in the autumn, just keep in mind that days are shorter (for hiking), and that waterfalls and rivers have much less water. Otherwise, no issues with North Albania in autumn, as it’s a beautiful time to explore it.
Is it worth going to the seaside and beaches in autumn?
Yes, going to the seaside, especially the Albanian Riviera in autumn, is a great idea. The days are sunny, temperatures are still okay for swimming, and there are MUCH fewer people. Plus, hotel prices are lower, making autumn a great budget beach vacation option in Albania.
Our favorite Albania eSIM
Fast Speed and Reliable Signal
Ever since we got phones that support eSIMs, we have been hooked and never looked back. 📶
We always get the best value-for-money eSIM we can, based on reliable signal, fast internet speeds, and coverage across the country. 🌐
Now that eSIM plan prices are more than reasonable compared to regular phone plans (which are more of a hassle to get), we really see no reason not to get one for each trip.
Useful tips for planning an Autumn visit to Albania
Start your days early
Starting your days early might be obvious, and it’s something we recommend no matter the month, but it’s especially important for an autumn trip anywhere, and most of all in Albania.
Autumn means you’re dealing with much less daylight, with days much shorter than in the summer. This affected our trip to Albania, so we had to extend it by a few days beyond our original plan to see everything we wanted.
Rent a car
During the long summer days, traveling around Albania by public transport is super simple. But in Autumn, not so much, with fewer connections and public transport taking up a lot of time out of already short days.
That’s why Autumn visits to Albania are made 1000% better by renting a car, as it allows you to see more places in less time. It’s exactly what we did, and if we didn’t, we’d see much less.
Driving times from our two-week Albania itinerary:
- Tirana to Shkoder: 2 hours – 100 km
- Shkoder to Theth: 2 hours – 75 km
- Shkoder to Vlore: 3 hours – 230 km
- Vlore to Himare: 1.5 hours – 65 km
- Himare to Sarande: 1 hour – 50 km
- Sarande to Ksamil: 30 minutes – 15 km
- Sarande to Gjirokaster: 1 hour – 52 km
- Gjirokaster to Berat: 2.5 hours – 180 km
- Berat to Tirana: 2 hours – 100 km
Final thoughts
Beyond a few downsides, like the dry Shala River, we are super pleased with how our autumn trip in Albania turned out. We’re happy to report that it’s a great option for traveling the country outside the season, with still-good weather for outdoor activities.
Continue your Albania trip planning
- ⭐ Tirana Attractions & Activities (travel guide to the capital)
- ⭐ What Not To Miss in Berat (best places and experiences)
- ⭐ Shkoder Travel Guide
- ⭐ Gjirokaster, the Stone City
- 🥾 Theth, Albanian Alps (best mountain town)
- 🏰 How to visit Kruje Historical Town
- 🌞 Ksamil, South Albania
- 🌞 Best Attractions and Beaches in Himare
- 🌊 Osumi Canyon River Tubing (one of the best things we did in Albania!)
- 🌄 Bovilla Lake (stunning lake viewpoint)
- 💃 Albanian Night (fantastic show with traditional dancing and singing)
- 🛌 Riverside Komani (fantastic riverside hotel for visiting the Shala River)
Must-read - 🇦🇱 Best of Albania in Two Weeks (day-by-day itinerary)
- 🌄 North Albania in One Week (rivers, lakes, hikes, swimming spots)
- 🚗 Renting a car in Albania (why it makes sense)
